Newly back on course with LVMH horsepower under the hood, Daniel Roth continues to show the world what 21st-century high horology is all about.
Just last year, Daniel Roth made a major comeback. The brand was relaunched under Louis Vuitton in February 2023 and just a month later, the first timepiece was unveiled. The limited edition Tourbillon Souscription is an artful reinterpretation of the watchmaker’s signature Tourbillon C187 from the 1980s. It features the trademark double-ellipse case, which perfectly accommodates the off-center dial while highlighting the one-minute tourbillon. HThe emblematic case is rendered in yellow gold, framing the dial produced by Kari Voutilainen, featuring a plate of solid yellow gold decorated with Clous de Paris guilloche. Today, we get the second generation in rose gold with a new guillochage en ligne dial and exhibition caseback putting the movement on full display.
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Although the very earliest examples of the original C187 sported dials finished with Clous de Paris guilloche (as found in the first-generation Tourbillon Souscription), Daniel Roth chose the linear guilloche found in this second-generation model as one of the trademarks of his brand shortly after its founding.
In addition, this latest model features the same instantly recognizable case shape, an amalgamation of a square and a circle that showcases the tourbillon at six o’clock. While visually the case appears nearly indistinguishable from the original C187, it has some minor updates. The reworked lugs more seamlessly curve with the case, and the case offers slimmer (and more wearable) proportions thanks to the upgrade of the DR001 caliber powering the watch.
The DR001 caliber was developed and manufactured from the ground up by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the founders of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, now the master watchmakers for the revived Daniel Roth. The exhibition caseback highlights the movement the bridges, which are finished with Côtes de Genève stripes that are aligned vertically to mirror the linear guilloche on the dial.
The new Daniel Roth Tourbillon in Rose Gold is available today and priced at CHF 155,000 (approximately $180,700). The watches will be numbered beginning with “21,” continuing the following the Souscription. No more than 50 pieces will be produced each year.
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